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FOOD LIVES TOWER HAMLETS

EXHIBITION LAUNCH: 1st June 4-7pm for residents at St Georges Estate, Shadwell

On 1st June, from 4-7pm we’ll be holding an event on the St George’s estate to showcase some of the photos by Tower Hamlets residents created during the food photography course. The launch event will include:

– Delicious free food cooked by local chefs

– Lots of activities and fun for little ones and teens – with prizes!

– Activities for adults too

– Plenty of chances to help us learn about food by getting involved with our research

– Information about local food histories

– The chance to learn about lovely local walks

Bring your invitation for a free meal

Contact E.Swan@sussex.ac.uk to find out more. 

FIND OUT MORE ABOUT FOOD LIVES TOWER HAMLETS

The University of Sussex and the Women’s Environmental Network (WEN) have launched a new programme on the St George’s Estate in Shadwell, Tower Hamlets called Food Lives Tower Hamlets. It’s all about the role food plays in our lives and the importance of history, culture and heritage to our food habits.

Food Lives Tower Hamlets is part of the FoodSEqual project, a 5-year research programme funded by UKRI and led by the University of Reading. The project involves universities, communities and food companies working alongside communities to create a better food environment. In essence, FoodSEqual wants to make it easier for people to access the food they want and need for happy and healthy lives. But it’s also about the environment – some foods have a higher impact on the planet than others.  

Wen have been running food sessions with communities across Tower Hamlets for over 10 years. They’ve also led the Tower Hamlets Food Partnership since 2018.

The University of Sussex, near Brighton, has a track record in research on food and sustainability. Dr Elaine Swan, a feminist food researcher, lives in Tower Hamlets and has worked closely with Wen’s Local Food team for several years.  

Want to know more? Listen to the Our House podcast where Jo Wilson, Shazna Hussain and Sajna Miah of the Women’s Environmental Network and Dr Elaine Swan of the University of Sussex discuss the programme: https://tinyurl.com/y2pvahbj

Watch this short film about how The Orchard community garden founded by Genia and Jim on the estate: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1gX4dMyzqnk

WHO IS ON THE RESEARCH TEAM?

There are several members of the team: Jo and Julie from Wen; and Elaine, Katerina and Jesse from the University of Sussex. Elaine, Katerina and Jesse study food and sustainability in communities. We also have brought two local resident researchers into the Wen team: Shazna Hussain and Sajna Miah. 

Shazna Hussain 

“I am a mother of 4 beautiful children. I was born in the East End and have a great interest in homemade food. The diverse community we have in Tower Hamlets is immensely interesting. I am looking forward to learning about the different cultural dishes and finding out about whether there are obstacles people are facing to provide their families nutritional meals.” 

Sajna Miah 

“I was born and brought up in Tower Hamlets. I am currently a volunteer at my local food bank for Eastend Homes.  The pandemic has been a very difficult time for many families across Tower Hamlets and more and more families are reaching out to food banks. Joining the community food researchers project will give me an opportunity to explore and understand how people from different backgrounds may use different foods in their daily life and the impact it has on individuals and their family’s health.”  

Taking part

Email Elaine to take part in the research and to find about our research ethics forms at e.swan@sussex.ac.uk. Or find the ethics forms in this folder https://sussex.app.box.com/s/injcruafkukqnhcbulufntmeoffoz19m

Dr Elaine Swan is a Senior Researcher at University of Sussex. She tweets at @DrElaineSwan1 and is a contributor to Servings: Critical Race Feminist Studies of Food Work and Food Pedagogies.

You can find out more about the FoodSEqual programme on Twitter at @foodsequal 

Find out more about Tower Hamlets Food Partnership.

Previous Events

In October, the University of Sussex worked with Wen to hold two events on the St George’s where they met residents and learned about people’s food memories, and their likes and dislikes. They also talked about their shopping habits, from Iceland to Chrisp Street and Watney Markets.  

In January, they ran an 8-week food photography course with Tower Hamlets residents, led by Pierre Bureau of Mindful Photo Lab, which celebrates mindfulness and art to improve wellbeing and community connection. 

Allotments on the St George’s Estate 

Throughout March and April, the University of Sussex and Wen ran fortnightly coffee mornings on the estate, where some of the research team were available for a chat and a hot drink.

Food Lives Community-led Food History Tour of Shadwell

19th November 2023

You might know about the Battle of Cable Street but did you know that Cable Street Studios used to be the site of one of the largest confectionery and jam factories, Batgers and Co in the early 20th Century? Have you heard of the Somali run Café Club Rio that used to be on Ensign Street in the 1950s and 1960s? Come join us for a walk around Shadwell’s forgotten cafes, factories and soup kitchens and the lively Watney Market of today. We’ll explore the rich social, cultural and economic history of food and food production.

Food history sites in Tower Hamlets

Art work by Nasima Sultana

Facilitated by researchers from the University of Sussex and the Women’s Environmental Network (WEN), you’ll visit some intriguing places and discover unusual multicultural food stories.

References for our tour and trail

Below is our reference list for the tour and trail map

Cable Street

Club Cafe Rio

Milne S.A. (2019). ‘Accounting for the hostel for “coloured colonial seamen” in London’s East End, 1942–1949’  in National Identities.

Everyday Muslim, 2017. Rio Cafe, the Harlem of London – Somali British Heritage  

Numbi Arts, 2020. [Twitter] 19 June 2022. 

https://surveyoflondon.org/map/feature/1739/detail/

Wiltons

Accessibility and practical information

• The tour last about 2.5 hours and lunch for one.

• The tour will take us mostly along pavements and is therefore suitable for anybody using a mobility scooter or wheelchair.

• There will be the opportunity to use a bathroom along the way and during lunch.

• Wear comfortable shoes and clothing appropriate for the November weather – including an umbrella, in case it rains.

• It’s always best to bring a bottle of water with you.

LIMITED TICKETS AVAILABLE

Food Lives project is part of a larger, UKRI-funded, research programme called FoodSEqual, which aims to improve the UK food system and is led by the University of Reading.

Community-led food lives walking tour image

An Online Symposium: Storying food: gendered, racialised and classed politics and possibilities 17th and 18th Nov 2021

Call for participation and work in progress papers

The University of Sussex Business School and the Sussex Centre for Cultural Studies (in the School of Media, Arts and Humanities), in conjunction with Brighton and Sussex Universities Food Network 

present

An Online Symposium: Storying food: gendered, racialised and classed politics and possibilities

10.00 to 17.00 GMT Wednesday 17th and Thursday 18th November 2021

Organising Committee: Barbora Adlerova, Cardiff University, Naaz Rashid, University of Sussex, Ruth Segal, University of Sussex, Elaine Swan, University of Sussex and Karen Wilkes, Birmingham City University 

‘Memo to recipe bloggers: No one wants your life story, says me, an asshole’, Jenny G. Zhang in Eater online magazine. (https://www.eater.com/2020/3/31/21201374/why-are-free-online-recipes-so-long-stop-shaming-food-bloggers)

‘Share your lockdown food stories over a cup of tea or coffee’. Nourish, Scotland online workshop.

 (https://www.nourishscotland.org/event/exploring-lockdown-food-stories-2)

‘Tools for food stories: flexible ways to capture and tell stories about food and food poverty’. (http://leapfrog.tools/toolbox/tools-for-food-stories)

‘British Library Calls for Caribbean Food Stories’. (https://blogs.bl.uk/americas/2021/02/introducing-caribbean-foodways-at-the-british-library)

‘Sharing our Stories: Strengthening the Food Justice Movement in Southern Ontario’s FoodShed’ (https://sustainontario.com/2012/03/12/sharing-our-stories-strengthening-the-food-justice-movement-in-southern-ontarios-foodshed)

This brief selection of quotations from food media, community groups, a consultancy and the British Library illustrates the intensification of story-telling about food in the UK and North America. They point to both the range of actors and agencies inviting food stories from food producers, growers and consumers, as well as the work that food stories are imagined to do in terms of witnessing, cultural reproduction, consciousness-raising, policy-making and collective politics. However, there is growing activist critique (see Black Book, Sourced, Vittles and The Racist Sandwich) of the colonial, racial and gendered dimensions of mainstream food media, its political economy, orientalist and exoticist narrativisations, amidst the broader politics of representation.  Relatedly, academic scholarship challenges poverty and austerity ‘porn’ and ‘suffering stories’ in the media (Allen et al., 2014; Jensen and Tyler, 2015); the obligation on marginalised groups to narrate their lives in policy and community contexts (Skeggs, 2004); the construction of refugees simply as ‘suppliers of stories’ (Cantelli and Shringarpure, 2020); and the cultural appropriation or ‘theft of food stories’ (Mann, 2019: 27). At the same time, there have been calls to rewrite food histories and to make visible hidden food stories to decolonise knowledge production and foster resistance and creativity: what Canadian Indigenous academic Tabitha Robin calls ‘good food stories’ (Abarca, 2006; Cantelli, & Shringarpure, 2020; Chin-Dawe, 2012; Herrington et al., 2020; Joshi, 2021; Nettles-Barcelon, 2012; Reese, 2019; Robin, 2019; Smoyer, 2015). As Lisa Lowe argues: 

Forms of individual and collective narratives are not merely representations disconnected from ‘real’ political life; nor are these expressions ‘transparent’ records of histories of struggle. Rather, these forms—life stories, oral histories, histories of community, literature—are crucial media that connect subjects to social relations. (1997: 33) 

In this vein, Beth Dixon (2018) offers ethical methods for writing and telling ‘counter-stories’ to challenge stereotypical and oppressive food justice narratives about food systems, obesity, poverty and  labour. 

Nevertheless, to date there has not been an event to explore the possibilities of storying food in light of these critiques, and previous feminist and postcolonial theories of narratives and media (Probyn, 2003; Richardson, 1990; Ahmed et al., 2000; Warhol and Lanser, 2015); critical food studies; and theories of class and poverty. Our event is designed to bring together scholars from a range of disciplinary locations such as sociology, anthropology, cultural studies, food studies, geography; to profile thinkers with scholarly and activist expertise; and to create a space for reflection on the politics and possibilities of gender, class and race in storying food, and dilemmas in our own research and writing practices. 

Format of the event:

Two optional online reading sessions:  20th Oct  12.00-13.30 GMT+1, and 3rd Nov 12.00-13.30 GMT. These are intended to provide an informal, relaxed opportunity for discussions and to introduce some concepts and authors. We will select readings from the following:

Workshop one:  

  • Olivia M. Aguilar (2021). The critical piece missing from a critical food studies curriculum. Food, Culture & Society, 24(2), 325-335. 
  • Cantelli, V., & Shringarpure, B. (2020). Resistant recipes: Food, gender and translation in migrant and refugee narratives. In The Routledge Handbook of Translation and Activism (pp. 421-436). London: Routledge.  
  • Pérez R.(2019). ‘Interviewing epistemologies: from life history to kitchen table ethnography’. In: Chrzan J. and Brett J. (eds.) Food culture: anthropology, linguistics and food studies.  New York: Berghahn Books.
  • Joshi, T. (2021). Stuffed: the new era of British food writing is here

Workshop two: 

  • Allen, K., Tyler, I., & De Benedictis, S. (2014). Thinking with ‘White Dee’: The gender politics of ‘austerity porn’. Sociological Research Online, 19(3), 256-262.
  • Patrick, R. ​​(2020). Unsettling the anti-welfare commonsense: The potential in participatory research with people living in poverty. Journal of Social Policy, 49(2), 251-270.
  • Skeggs, B. (2002). Techniques for Telling the Reflexive Self. In: Tim May, (ed.) Qualitative Research in Action. London: Sage, pp. 349-375. 

Symposium: 

Day One Wednesday 17th November:  Keynotes and group discussions

Professor Beth Dixon is Professor of philosophy at the State University of New York, Plattsburgh, USA. She has written on food justice and ethics and animals. Recent work includes her book entitled Food Justice and Narrative Ethics: Reading Stories for Ethical Awareness and Activism and Learning to See Food Justice, in the Journal of Agriculture and Human Values, Vol. 31, No. 2 (Summer 2014).

Dr Sukhmani Khorana is Vice-Chancellor’s Senior Research Fellow at the University of Western Sydney, Australia and is based at the Young and Resilient Research Centre.  Her research, publications and grants span three main areas: diasporic film and culture, refugee media and empathy, and food in multicultural contexts. Recent writing includes The Tastes and Politics of Inter-cultural Food in Australia and Watching to Witness: Responses Beyond Empathy to Refugee Documentaries in Tanja Dreher and Anshuman Mondal (eds.) Ethical Responsiveness and the Politics of Difference. Basingstoke, United Kingdom: Palgrave Macmillan. 133-149

Dr. Tammara Soma is Assistant Professor at the School of Resource and Environmental Management at Simon Fraser University, Canada. She conducts research on food systems planning, community-based research, and waste management.  She is co-founder of the Food Systems Lab, bringing the experiences of Indigenous and non Indigenous communities into mapping ‘hidden food infrastructures’. Our Home, Our Food, Our Resilience was published from that work. Co-editor of the Routledge Handbook of Food Waste, she recently published Food assets for whom? Community perspectives on food asset mapping in Canada in the Journal of Urbanism: International Research on Placemaking and Urban Sustainability. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1080/17549175.2021.1918750.

Day Two Thursday 18th November: Workshop and Panel

Work in progress papers workshop – see below

Storying food panel – scholar-artist-activists discuss the intersections of storytelling about food in very different domains and media

  • Dr Anna Sulan Masing, Dr Olivia Sheringham and Helen Taylor, Dr Ekua McMorris and Sheila Ghelani and Sue Palmer

Bios

  • Dr Anna Sulan Masing is a writer, editor and academic focusing on food and drink, media and arts, with a PhD investigating identity and storytelling. She established Sourced, a research project which explores global food and drinks pathways. She also co-founded a podcast Voices At The Table and Black Book, a platform for Black & non-white people working within hospitality and food media.
  • Dr Olivia Sheringham and Helen Taylor. Olivia is a Lecturer at the Department of Geography at Birkbeck College, London. Her research interests span migration and belonging, home, cultural diversity and creative and collaborative practice. Helen Taylor is a director of Stories & Supper, a project on storytelling, food and welcome with refugees and local residents in Waltham Forest, London. https://www.storiesandsupper.co.uk
  • Dr Ekua McMorris is a London-based fine artist with a doctorate in photography. Her visual practice explores the politics of race, memory, narratives and belonging against the backdrop of British colonialism. Ekua is a project curator and a lead researcher for the Garden Museum’s new project, Sowing Roots, a journey into the history of the gardening cultures and traditions that Caribbean people carried with them when they moved to the UK after World War II. She recently finished a book, England Our England, about the Windrush generation.
  • Sheila Ghelani and Sue Palmer both work individually as artists in performance, audio and moving image. Sheila and Sue collaborated on the project Common Salt, a performance around a table – a ‘show and tell’ – exploring the colonial, geographical and natural history of England and India and narratives of trade, empire and culture. Out of that project came a book published in July 2021, which documents and explores the Common Salt performance text. Sheila is an artist of Indian/English mixed heritage, who makes visible the connections between race, ecology, science, history and the present day. Sue is an artist working across media and form, making things with people, places and nature, in the UK and internationally. Commissions include the collaborative work The 100 Year Old Band in Germany and Finland, alongside work for Battersea Arts Centre, b-side festival and many non-arts organisations. https://www.sheilaghelani.co.uk/commonsalt

How to attend and key dates: 

  1. If you would like to attend the Symposium, please book at this eventbrite by November 12th 2021.
  2. Please register for the reading groups at the same eventbrite by October 15th 2021.
  3. If you would like to speak in the work in progress workshop, please submit an abstract of 300 words to the eventbrite link by October 1st 2021. We will confirm acceptances by October 15th 2021.  

More information on work-in-progress workshop

  • We’re inviting papers for a workshop where participants will be able to present their work-in-progress. Empirical, theoretical, methodological or exploratory musings as well as creative works are welcome. There will be a supportive space for feedback and discussion. Work in progress presentations are expected to be up to 20 minutes duration. 

For more information please contact AdlerovaB@cardiff.ac.uk 

Potential questions to explore:  

  • How is food storytelling used in the production, distribution and consumption of lived experience and to what ends and effects? What are the benefits and losses?  How can the inequalities of the political economy of storying food be challenged? 
  • What genres of individual and collective stories are told – oral histories, biographies, autobiographies, documentary films, zines, blogs,  fiction and poetry, recipes and cookbooks and through which media?  And what political work do these genres and forms of mediation do? 
  • How are gender, race, and class mobilized and reproduced in participatory and storying spaces? How do the contexts and conditions of production inflect what stories can be told? What are the power entanglements at play? What are the politics of ‘giving voice’?  What is the relationship between lived experience, storytelling and ‘truth’? 
  • How do we listen to /witness individual and collective food stories of people with lived experience of food insecurity (to achieve more just and sustainable food systems?) What other stories about food need to be told and heard? How can food storytelling redress erasure and discrimination? What counter-stories challenge dominant ‘master’ narratives about food, gender, race, class and other axes of difference? 

References: 

Abarca, M. E. (2006). Voices in the kitchen: Views of food and the world from working-class Mexican and Mexican American women (Vol. 9). Texas A&M University Press.

Ahmed, S., Kilby, J., Lury, C., McNeil, M. and Skeggs, B. (eds.) (2000). Transformations: Thinking Through Feminisms. London: Routledge.

Cantelli, V., & Shringarpure, B. (2020). Resistant recipes: Food, gender and translation in migrant and refugee narratives. In Rebecca Ruth Gould, Kayvan Tahmasebian (eds.) The Routledge Handbook of Translation and Activism (pp. 421-436). London: Routledge.

Herrington, T. Patrick, R. and Watson, S. (2019) Poverty2solutions: reflections from collaborative research rooted in the expertise of experience on poverty. Journal of Poverty and Social Justice, 28 (1): 1–12, DOI: 10.1332/175982719X15759738790370

Jensen, T., Tyler, I. (2015). ‘Benefit broods’: The cultural and political crafting of anti-welfare common sense. Critical Social Policy, 35, 470–491.

Lowe, L. (1997). ‘Work, Immigration, Gender: New Subjects of Cultural Politics’. Social Justice, 25 (3): 31–49.

Mann, A. (2019). Voice and participation in global food politics. London: Routledge.

Nettles-Barcelón, K. (2012). California Soul: Stories of food and place from Oakland’s Brown Sugar Kitchen. Boom: A Journal of California, 2(3), 18-24.

Probyn, E. (2003). Sexing the self: Gendered positions in cultural studies. London: Routledge.

Reese, A. M. (2019). Black food geographies: Race, self-reliance, and food access in Washington, DC. Chapel Hill: UNC Press Books.

Robin, T. (2019). Our hands at work: Indigenous food sovereignty in Western Canada. Journal of Agriculture, Food Systems, and Community Development, 9(B), 85-99.

Richardson, L. (1990). Writing strategies: Reaching diverse audiences (Vol. 21). London: Sage.

Skeggs, B. (2004) Class, Self, Culture. London: Routledge.

Smoyer, A. (2015) “It’s the Black Girls That Have the Most”: Foodways Narratives and the Construction of Race in a Women’s Prison. Food and Foodways, 23(4), 273-285.

Warhol, R., & Lanser, S. S. (2015). Narrative theory unbound: Queer and feminist interventions. The Ohio State University Press.

Brighton and Sussex Universities Network Food Studies Work in Progress Symposium 15th December Online 9.45am-2.45pm

Brighton and Sussex Universities Network Food Studies Work in Progress Symposium 15th December Online 9.45am-2.45pm

Agenda

9.45am Welcome and Introductions

10am-11.00am

  • So, what’s ‘the alternative’? Community food innovations and the post-covid new normal- Katerina Psarikidou
  • Forests, food production and the Sustainable Development Goals: Moving towards more sustainable practices? – Izabela Delabre and Joanna Smallwood

11.15am-12.15pm  

  • Eating the Other: Exploring the dynamics of London’s pop-up restaurant scene – Naaz Rashid
  • Flags don’t feed people: An exploration of how nationalism features in agri-cultural issues in the UK, in the context of Brexit – Anoushka Zoob Carter 

12.15-1pm Lunch break

1pm-2pm

  • Food in crisis’: food supply in England during the period of COVID-19- Michael Little
  • ‘Working women demand food and peace’: East End of London Federation of Suffragettes’ wartime food politics – Elaine Swan 

2pm-2.45pm Concluding thoughts – Dr Divya Sharma, University of Sussex and speakers

Register at https://www.eventbrite.co.uk/e/brighton-and-sussex-universities-network-food-studies-symposium-tickets-130574294229

Bios and abstracts

10am-11.00am

So, what’s ‘the alternative’? Community food innovations and the post-covid new normal – Katerina Psarikidou

Abstract Building on conceptual and empirical underpinnings of my research on ‘alternative agro-food networks’ (e.g. Psarikidou and Szerszynski, 2012a; 2012b; Psarikidou, 2015; Psarikidou et al, 2019), in this presentation, I aim to reflect, as well as open the floor for a broader discussion, on the role that community food and local food initiatives can play at configuring as well as enacting an alternative pathway for a post-covid food normal.

Bio Katerina is Lecturer in Sustainable Development at the Science Policy Research Unit (SPRU) and co-mobiliser of the Science, Politics and Decision-Making research group. Her research unpacks the sustainability and innovation potential of alternative agro-food and mobility practices, particularly by situating in the broader political economic landscape of power and inequalities. Since 2004, she has had researcher and investigator roles at several EC and UK funded research projects, she has been researcher for the CSO GeneWatch UK, and has long-term experience conducting research in close collaboration with organisations from the third sector.

Forests, food production and the Sustainable Development Goals: Moving towards more sustainable practices? -Izabela Delabre and Joanna Smallwood

Abstract Land conversion for agricultural commodities – such as palm oil, soy and beef – is a significant driver of tropical deforestation. In 2015, the UN 17 Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) were adopted, stating that by 2020, we need to: “promote the implementation of sustainable management of all types of forests, halt deforestation, restore degraded forests and substantially increase afforestation and reforestation globally.” It is evident that this target will be missed, alongside other global sustainability goals aiming to reduce tropical deforestation in commodity production. Examining the discourses of the SDGs and global goals on forests and sustainable food production, we argue that the global goals, and the actors they attract, promote and reproduce neoliberal values of forests, and the continued prioritisation of economic growth weakens discourses related to forests and sustainable food production. We discuss a range of other challenges, such as (deceptive) interlinkages between policy goals at the high level, but conflictive fragmentation in policy detail and practice that prevents true linkages. Multinational corporations have powerful positions in initiatives for sustainable commodity production, with implications for the framing of the problem of deforestation, and unsustainable production practices, and therefore possible solutions. We examine the implications of these findings at a critical juncture for informing the next decade of international efforts on tackling deforestation, considering the possibilities of challenging persistent narratives, to strengthen governance for forests and sustainable food production.

Bio Izabela Delabre I am a Research Fellow at the University of Sussex, examining sustainable forest governance, sustainable production and consumption of food, and sustainability transformations. Before joining Sussex Sustainability Research Programme in 2018, I worked for the Business and Biodiversity Conservation Programme at the Zoological Society of London (ZSL) managing ZSL’s global oil palm work. My PhD (Human Geography) examined the political ecology of participatory impact assessment practices in the context of the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO) in Indonesia and Malaysia.

Bio Joanna Smallwood is a Lecturer in Law at the University of Sussex with a long standing interest in nature conservation. She worked in the legal department at Friends of the Earth and as a solicitor at Leigh, Day & Co. in London, with a particular interest in environmental law multi-party actions. Joanna’s ESRC funded PhD was on the implementation of the Convention on Biological Diversity’s Aichi Targets in the UK and she recently completed an ESRC/SENNS funded post doctoral fellowship at Sussex University also with a focus on implementation of international biodiversity law. She has close affiliations with the ‘Re-thinking Biodiversity Governance’ network, an international think tank for transformative biodiversity governance. As well as working on her forthcoming book: Implementing International Environmental Law (Routledge), Joanna’s research focuses on transformative governance of food production and consumption and nature conservation.

11.15-12.15  

Eating the Other: Exploring the dynamics of London’s pop-up restaurant scene – Naaz Rashid

Abstract In ‘Eating the Other’, bell hooks (1992) suggests that “the commodification of Otherness has been so successful because it is offered as a new delight, more intense, more satisfying than normal ways of doing and feeling”. My project examines the intersectional dynamics of ‘ethnic commodification’ within the pop-up restaurant scene amongst the producers, and the phenomenon of ‘food adventurers’ (Heldke 2003) amongst the consumers. How are race, gender and class dynamics playing out in the scene? For example, which cuisines are regarded as ‘fashionable’ and which chefs are deemed ‘authentic’. In this presentation I will introduce my project and will discuss some of the emergent themes as well as discussing the impact of the pandemic. 

Bio Dr Naaz Rashid is a Lecturer in Media and Cultural Studies in the School of Media Arts and Humanities, University of Sussex and is Director of Sussex Centre for Cultural Studies. Her work is focused on the intersections of race and gender in the urban context. 

Flags don’t feed people: An exploration of how nationalism features in agri-cultural issues in the UK, in the context of Brexit – Anoushka Zoob Carter 

Abstract As Europe witnesses a rise in support of the far-right, more attention is being paid to why nationalistic sentiment is gaining popularity, particularly amongst rural populations. However, less known is how nationalism interacts with pressing ecological issues, even less so with agricultural matters. Given that a large proportion of farmers in the UK are said to have supported Brexit, it is important to better understand the relationship between the various iterations of nationalism, and how it is applied to problems affecting the future of agriculture. Now that the EU has a new agriculture policy to replace the EU CAP, it is even more important to understand how agri-environmental issues are framed as issues of concern for the nation. This presentation is an opportunity to share some key reflections from my Master thesis. Namely, to illustrate some contemporary frames which highlight the synergies and paradoxes of nationalism as it approaches problems in agri-cultural issues in the context of Brexit. This also includes an insight into the conjuncture between Brexit and the crisis of COVID-19 in 2020. The result of this analysis reveals how patriotism is framed by a variety of actors concerned with the future of the UK’s agriculture sector.  Additionally, this research elucidates a vision for conservation that depends on technology and a neoliberal approach to supporting farmers. Also revealed are concepts typically associated with progressive movements for food justice which have been instrumentalised in the discourse of more right-wing groups, such as supporting the ‘local’ and ‘food sovereignty’. 

Bio Anoushka Zoob Carter is a recent Human Ecology MSc graduate from Lund University with a background in critical food geographies. She is a member of the Zetkin Collective – a dynamic collaboration of activists and researchers investigating the environmental politics of the far-right – and has contributed to their book ‘White Skin, Black Fuel: On the Dangers of Fossil Fascism’ (Verso, forthcoming). She is currently working as a research assistant at Sussex University and has plans to begin a PhD looking into the emerging conflicts between conservation and the greening of agri-capitalism.

12.15-1pm Lunch break

1pm-2pm

Food in crisis’: food supply in England during the period of COVID-19 – Michael Little

Abstract Access to nutritious food is a basic human right and many have advocated for a more just food system (Sustain, 2002). During COVID-19 there was both a government and public response to the crisis. The government has largely relied on the private sector, particularly supermarkets, to provide food to the public. However, when people began to panic buy- demand exceeded immediate supply and we have seen many empty supermarket shelves. The public have formed co-operatives and initiatives to share and distribute food. The COVID-19 crisis has revealed fundamental flaws in the way we distribute the food we eat. This presentation draws on some comparison between food in WW2 where both periods involved shortages in food supply.

Bio Michael Little, BA, MA FRAI Most recently I worked as a chef for His Grace the 11th Duke of Richmond at Goodwood, West Sussex. I studied my MA in Anthropology and Development and Social Transformation here at Sussex. I focus my writing on the anthropology of food. At heart, I am a keen environmentalist. I am a long-standing member of the international Slow Food movement. My wife and I recently started a small community garden in Worthing growing organic fruit and vegetables.

‘Working women demand food and peace’:  East End of London Federation of Suffragettes’ wartime food politics – Elaine Swan

Abstract In this paper, I discuss research on suffragette food activism in the East End of London during the first world war in Europe. Although the stories of white middle class British suffragettes are well known in the UK, much less is known about the working-class suffragettes of the East End -the East End Federation of Suffragettes (ELFS)-  and their food politics. Working class women suffered most as a result of food shortages, women’s unemployment, increasing poverty, inflated food prices, food queues and starvation caused by the war and government policy (Davis, 1991; Green, 2017). As a result, the ELFS turned to food activism and social welfare on top of their suffrage politics. Minutes of the ELFS committee meetings detail their understanding of the feminisation and classed nature of food poverty and their planned feminist food protest strategies.  They mixed the running of food social enterprises with calls for government control over food distribution and pricing to curb profiteering and enable equality of food supply. In this paper, I outline three main food activism strategies, all underpinned by feminist socialist principles: the setting up of cost-price restaurants and communal eating; modes of food writing in their newspaper, Womens/Workers Dreadnought and formal and informal food protests. I build on arguments that ELFS’ food activism politicised consumption and women’s domesticity in ways which redefined gender and offered white working- class women new political spaces; and ask how these politics can inform food activism today (Green, 2017; Hunt, 2010).

Bio Elaine Swan I am a senior lecturer based in the Future of Work Hub in Sussex University Business School. My research interests are in feminist critical race food studies; critical diversity studies; and the interface between therapy culture and the workplace. I am co-editing a special themed section of Gender, Work and Organization on Foodwork due out in 2021 and  published recently on Gender, race, class and COVID foodwork; the ‘Life of Psy’ in an edited volume on Assembling Therapeutics; digital whiteness and foodie waste femininity with Maud Perrier and Vietnamese food tourism in Sydney with Rick Flowers. I am currently designing a digital food history tour and map of the East End of London. 

2-2.45 pm Dr Divya Sharma

Bio My research draws on the subfields of political ecology, critical development studies, historical sociology, agrarian studies, and science and technology studies and employs qualitative methodologies. I am interested in postcolonial rural transformations, mapping changing landscapes of work, agro-ecology and the politics of sustainability. Before coming to SPRU, I received a PhD in Development Sociology from Cornell University (2017). Using ethnographic methods, my dissertation project (Techno-politics, Agrarian Work and Resistance in post-Green Revolution Indian Punjab) examines the unfolding of agricultural intensification through high yielding varieties of seeds and agro-chemicals in the Indian state of Punjab since the 1960s, through the lens of changing labour practices and forms of political organising among smallholders. In particular, I focus on the ongoing mobilisation for shifting toward ecologically sustainable farming and how it articulates with entrenched forms of social inequalities. I have conducted extensive fieldwork-based research in rural and urban India. Prior to graduate school, I was engaged in collaborative research at the Institute of Social Studies Trust (ISST), Delhi centred on women’s work in the informal economy.

Recent publications include:

Arora, Saurabh, Van Dyck, Barbara, Sharma, Divya and Stirling,Andy (2020) Control, care, and conviviality in the politics of technology for sustainability. Sustainability: Science, Practice, and Policy, 16 (1). pp. 247-262

Sharma, Divya, Vijayabaskar, M, Menon, Ajit and Arora, Saurabh (2020) Relational approaches to poverty in rural India: social, ecological and technical dynamics. Contemporary South Asia. pp. 1-16

SOAS Special Lecture Between Distribution and Consumption: On The Social Practices of Food Acquisition Dr Hanna Garth

SOAS Food Studies Centre

Between Distribution and Consumption: On The Social Practices of Food Acquisition

Buying Street Food in Cuba
Dr Hanna Garth (University of California San Diego)

Date: 18 December 2020Time: 1:00 PM

Finishes: 18 December 2020Time: 3:00 PM

Venue: Virtual Event

Type of Event: Special Lecture

Abstract

As food circulated across the globe more rapidly and more broadly, within the anthropology of food early work focused on illuminating the importance of food distribution in the production-distribution-consumption chain. Based on ethnographic research in Cuba and the United States, in this talk I argue that the link between distribution and consumption is not a given, and food acquisition should be considered an important step in the chain from production to consumption. A focus on acquisition reveals intimate forms of sociality, cultural norms for accessing food, and reveals the dynamic ways in which people negotiate their social positions through food. I call for robust analysis of the social and cultural processes of food acquisition that we see in various global contexts.

Speaker Biography

Hanna Garth, PhD, MPH is a sociocultural and medical anthropologist specializing in the anthropology of food. She conducts research in Cuba and Los Angeles. Focusing on the ways in which marginalized people overcome barriers to food access, she documents how people struggle to consume meals they understand as traditional and culturally relevant. She is currently assistant professor of Anthropology at the University of California San Diego, and beginning in Fall 2021 she will join the Department of Anthropology at Princeton University. Dr Garth is the author of Food in Cuba: The Pursuit of a Decent Meal (Stanford University Press, 2020) and the co-editor of Black Food Matters: Racial Justice in the Wake of Food Justice (University of Minnesota Press, 2020).

Registration

The event is free and open to public. Please register via Zoom.

Organiser: SOAS Food Studies Centre

Contact email: centres@soas.ac.uk

Agroecology in the Global South podcast with Dr Divya Sharma and other guests

Hosted by The We Be Imagining Podcast which examines the intersection of race, tech, surveillance, gender and disability in the COVID-19 era.

Connecting The Dots: Agroecology in the Global South

Connecting The Dots: Agroecology in the Global South

We Be Imagining Download

From poultry plants in the US South pushing low-wage workers to process 175 birds per minute (BPM), to the slow violence of pesticides in Punjab causing premature disability to the European food sovereignty movement challenging strategies of resisting capitalist discipline imported from digital rights activism- scholars, Carrie Freshour, Divya Sharma and Barbara Van Dyck join the WBI show to connect the dots of agroecology across the global south.

How can we trace the lineage of poultry production to the plantation? What do the oral histories of 80 year old farmers in the Punjab region tell us about ecological degradation and the green revolution? How does transforming our relationship to food, land and each other require a transformation of the state? This extended cut episode addresses these questions and more.

Hosts: J. Khadijah Abdurahman, Ilan Mandel

Guests: 

University of Washington Assistant Professor of Geography Carrie Freshour,

University of Sussex Lecturer in Sustainable Development Divya Sharma 

and Associate Professor at Coventry University in the Centre for Agroecology, Water and Resilience Barbara Van Dyck

Music: Drew Lewis
Show Notes:Capitalist agriculture and Covid-19: A deadly combination (Interview w/ Rob Wallace)
Racial Capitalism: A Fundamental Cause of Novel Coronavirus (COVID-19) Pandemic Inequities in the United States – Whitney N. Laster Pirtle, 2020
Divya Sharma – Mobilization for Socio-Ecological Sustainability in post-Green Revolution Punjab
Poultry and Prisons by Carrie Freshour (Monthly Review)
“Ain’t No Life For A Mother!” Racial Capitalism And The Crisis Of Social Reproduction by Carrie Freshour
Scholar-activists in an expanding European food sovereignty movement by Barbara Van Dyck
(PDF) Articulating Agrarian Racism: Statistics and Plantationist Empirics by Brian Williams
Their Family Bought Land One Generation After Slavery. The Reels Brothers Spent Eight Years in Jail for Refusing to Leave It.
What is Revolutionary About The Green Revolution?

Sociological Review Blog Theme on Food

https://www.thesociologicalreview.com/category/collections/food/

Introducing October’s theme: Food

This month’s digital theme is Food. During the last six months, food has been – depending on your experience of the pandemic – another thing to worry about sourcing and buying; a great comfort; something we’ve missed sharing with each other; a hobby; a job; a break; a duty… There’s been “right” foods and “wrong” foods; there’s been lavish displays of home baking on Instagram; there’s been unprecedented demand on food banks; there’s been stockpiling, and food parcels delivered by mutual aiders. We’ve been told to Eat Out to Help Out while many of us wondered about the cost of such Government initiatives. Food – eating, growing, buying, selling, branding, cooking, and sharing it – is a topic rich with sociological questions, and we’re delighted by the menu (sorry; we couldn’t help it!) on offer across our digital platforms this month.

We are thrilled to be publishing blog posts by academics around the world, from Virgie Tovar, who writes with characteristic clarity on food justice and fat activism, to Jean-Pierre Poulain, author of The Sociology of Food: Eating and the Place of Food in Society, reflecting on this seminal work three years on. Sharon Noonan examines the pressures placed on mothers of higher weight children, while Julio Angel Alicea shares ethnographic insights into food, fugitivity, and futurity in the flatlands of Los Angeles. Leigh Lawrence has collaborated with an illustrator to explore the Mooncake Factory as a metaphor for their ongoing research into Chinese education reform. Smriti Singh explores the bonds created and sustained by sharing food and recipes in her immediate family. Kiah Smith and Zoe Staines interrogate the relationships between work, sovereignty and food in remote parts of Australia. Sinikka Elliott explores food provision in the context of intersecting in equalities, Susan Marie Martin writes on the regulation of woman street traders, and the impact of this on those buying food in the economic margins. Rahul Ganguly looks at the textures of food, reminding us of our September digital theme of ‘Texture.’ Finally Alessandro Gerosa writes on taste dealers in the food economy and Katie

Our Instagram Residency this month is taken on by Verdine Etoria. Verdine’s research concern is the labour of food establishments, and the cultural positioning of these workers. Though his PhD research he encountered informal networks amongst restaurant workers which can facilitate both solidarity and competition. In his residency, Verdine will be taking us to the restaurants and eateries of Leeds, drawing attention to minority and underrepresented groups and business away from the town centre and affluent suburbs. Follow us on thesociologicalreview for all the images, and look out for the blog introducing the residency further.

Each month we make a series of papers from The Sociological Review’s archive which relate to our digital theme free to access. This month we have selected four from across the last three decades. Firstly, Nickie Charles and Marion Kerr’s 1986 article ‘Food for Feminist Thought’ considers women’s relationship to food, particularly in relationship to the body and body-image. In 1994, Deborah Lupton wrote in The Sociological Review about her qualitative research into childhood memories of food and their relationship to eating habits. Marlene Morrison’s 1996 paper looked at eating together and sharing food in school contexts. The final selection comes from Catrin Smith, who in 2002 wrote about how food factors into the experiences of the incarcerated. 

Finally, to complete the content for this month in a musical way, we invited sociology colleagues to to share a recipe with us that links to the work they’re currently researching. We will be bringing you a Monsoon Chicken Supreme from Claire Alexander, leftover beer-battered vegetables from Tracey Skillington, as well as another delicacy from Malika Booker.

With this collection, we have only hoped to offer a sample menu of the rich world of the sociology of food. Whether practices of making, marketing or consuming food, it is a lively field that we hope our collection gives some insight into. Lockdown has made chefs and bakers of many of us, and indeed for a while #AcademicTwitter was full of cooking successes (and some failures). At an event we hosted earlier in the year, many participants jokingly lamented the lack of dry biscuits and bad coffee to share with colleagues over a catch up. While this may be a while off still, we hope that you will join in our conversations on social media this month about all things food. Bon appetite (sorry!).

– The Digital Team Sociological Review

Portsmouth and Plantain Chips: How the pandemic affected the ‘African Food Store’

Words by Emmanuella Ngimbi; Illustration by Onyinye Iwu published in Vittles

Seasons only happen to European vegetables and fruits ─ everything outside of that is abundant and homogeneous all year round. At least that’s the impression I get from perusing the websites of some of our restaurant suppliers. Seasonality and tradition is for British produce (which is great), and for French and Italian produce too (even better), heritage tomatoes priced like jewels and multicoloured citrus reverently picked and handled to reveal their most potent expression. Some of us shop at these places and rue the effect on our wallets, but we go back because we understand why we pay the price. Outside of this, we expect our local supermarkets to be full of the same cheap, aseasonal produce from outside Europe ─ a clear demarcation in what we value.

The major exception to this rule is the mango, whose seasons in the UK closely follow India and Pakistan with a one week delay. Even Natoora has Alphonsos. But what if our idea of seasonality could expand further? Remember, the big advantage of seasonality is not for our palates but that it confers value for the farmer: I spent all of yesterday tasting and pricing some Chinese teas made from single trees, usually released about now, and they will go on the market at over £1 per gram. Meanwhile tea priced at £1 per kilo is made all year round in East Africa by farmers who will never be able to generate the value needed to ensure they are paid fairly, trapped in a colonial system of exploitation.

We very rarely hear about the traditional and seasonal agriculture of places outside Europe ─ particularly Africa. Yet they exist, and face additional challenges given that the food system is often imposed from outside. Today’s article by Emmanuella Ngimbi on how COVID-19 has negatively affected the African food stores in her city of Portsmouth, is perhaps a direct effect of this ─ these food chains are barely valued except by those for whom they are vital or for whom it is simply a commodity market, the produce is not yet the highest quality because the systems are not in place to connect the best producers. I think of Yemisi Aribisala who has written about how difficult it is to get great iru in London, and of Tunde Wey who helped source equitably traded iru for the US market, introducing it to a new audience as something of value. I wonder what our larders and our food would look like if iru could be traded as easily and equitably as Miyagawa satsumas?

I’m not saying the solution is for Natoora to stock £3 plantains. The African food store already exists and serves populations both concentrated and fragmented (as Emmanuella points out, the more fragmented the more importance they take on). There are also huge issues regarding supply chains and food resilience which must be solved internally. A tiny but not insignificant thing we could do is be more mindful of the things we value and the things we don’t. As minor as it seems, the rise of West African food in London restaurants and the introduction of West African recipes into the British mainstream, will eventually have implications, both foreseen and unforeseen, on producers thousands of miles away. And with them, the African food store will change too ─ from a commodity market to perhaps something more small scale, both local and localised, that can benefit farmers and consumers alike.


Portsmouth and Plantains: How the pandemic affected the ‘African Food Store’

For decades, African food stores have quietly been serving UK communities often neglected by the major supermarket chains. Although some supermarkets have tentatively started stocking basic ingredients, like plantain or fufu, these tiny, often ad-hoc stores are still a staple stop on any Black shopping trip ─ especially for items that deteriorate faster and represent more risk for supermarkets, like lesser-seen African greens such as potato leaves, cassava leaves and callaloo. These stores serve as a vital connection for both African and Caribbean expats, food and ingredients being a key – and inexpensive – way they can keep a connection to heritage while away from home.

The ‘African’ food store is not one definable thing, and often changes depending on who you ask and which parts of the African diaspora live in a certain area. People from West Africa, the Horn of Africa, East Africa and Central Africa may enjoy similar keystone ingredients which can be found at your local African food store, but there are also many important differences.

It is the West and Central African food store that is perhaps the most visible. The people of West Africa eat starchy and spicy meals such as kenkey, fufu and garri, and most of the ingredients needed to make these dishes are found in specifically West African food stores. These usually cater to Nigerians, Ghanaians and Sierra Leoneans, as well as the more fragmented parts of the West African diaspora, from Senegal and Gambia in the west, and as far east as the Congo, where I am from. 

London is home to hundreds of these shops, and they can be found in areas where diasporas have settled: Dalston, Barking and Upton Park in the east; Peckham, Brixton and Lewisham in the south; Harlesden in the west and Tottenham in the north. But outside of London, the paucity of these shops means they take on an even greater significance to those who rely on them.


Moving to the seafront after living in London my entire life was a major culture shock. Ten years ago Portsmouth was a lot less diverse, which also meant less establishments catered to Black people. It was hard to find basic amenities like Afro-Caribbean hair shops, food stores, hairdressers and barbers that work with Black hair textures, let alone restaurants. Eventually, after getting to know other Black people in the area, familiarity became community. 

This is the case for my local African food store. Ever since I discovered it two years ago it has been a salvation for me and my mum – before we used to make the 150-mile round trip to London four times a year to stock up. Brigitte, the owner, is from Cameroon and mainly sells food and ingredients to make home-style Cameroonian dishes such as eru, ekwang and sangah, but this is not enough to survive. As Portsmouth has a low population of African people she also sells common stock that will cater to the diversity of the African diaspora: produce such as maize, plantain and cassava. Every African person knows these ingredients intimately and will use them to prepare different dishes, all of which bring familiarity and a sense of comfort.

While the temporary negative impacts of COVID-19 on the supply chains of UK supermarkets were widely reported, the effect on smaller stores, particularly diasporic supermarkets, has been less so. The pandemic has heavily impacted African food shops as they usually rely heavily on stock imported from Cameroon ─ which has had an economic trade partnership with the EU since 2014 ─ as well as Nigeria, South Africa and Ghana. With these countries closing their borders as early as April and without the possibility of native grown British produce, African food stores in the UK have struggled to stock the shelves that our own panic buyers left bare. In order to keep her business manageable with the low intake of stock and the unpredictability of panic buyers, Brigitte was forced to limit customers to four items per person, asking them to think about others. Even with this condition, she says that on a typical week she would “sell 90% of the shop”. 

Unfortunately for Brigitte, the easing of lockdown hasn’t helped her business return to a state of normality. While supermarkets have multiple solutions to shore up against the problem of disrupted supply chains, there continues to be trouble shipping food and ingredients from Africa, most of which can’t be replaced through any other means. Brigitte mentions the difficulty in connecting flights – her stock may get out of Cameroon but one cancellation and vital produce is suddenly stranded. 

To tackle this, Brigitte now visits six different warehouses in London to find stock for her store, a striking difference from before lockdown when she would only visit one. African food stores based in areas with a low populations of Black people, such as Portsmouth, would normally spend at least £250 a week hiring vans to travel to warehouses in London to restock their stores, but over the last few months Brigitte has often been left disappointed when the van returns with less than half of the products required. The customers that were once patient have become disappointed at the lack of action from the government – who they blame for the delay in response back in March for many of Brigitte’s issues – but nevertheless they have remained supportive.

As one of only three African food shops across Portsmouth, stores like Brigitte’s have even more of an imperative task to serve and provide, given that Black people in these areas do not have the luxury of finding many alternative shops for ingredients. Grace, a Congolese customer based in Portsmouth, highlights the importance of these shops: “It’s so important for my family to eat African food as well as British food; it reminds me of home, my children enjoy it and love learning about the different dishes from Congo”. Grace and Brigitte both speak French, which helps to identify the Congolese names for food that she’d otherwise struggle to translate such as chikwanga (steamed cassava bread), fumbwa (wild spinach stew) and pondu (cassava leaf stew). “If these shops in Portsmouth don’t have the ingredients I need I can’t just go to Tesco or Asda. Yes they have a ‘world food’ section but less 5% of it is African. I would be forced to go to London to buy African food for my family, which can be tiring.” Grace explains. “That’s why I’m so happy Brigitte is here.”

Despite some financial support from the government, Brigitte has refused to rest on her laurels, and says that this pandemic has forced her to be prepared for the worst. “As a businesswoman you should be prepared at all times,” she tells me. “This is a pandemic; next time it could be a war, a fire or flood, so we have to be prepared mentally and physically.” One of the key ways Brigitte is preparing her business for the worst is by storing food such as Indomie packet noodles, garri and palm oil out back, ensuring she will have more than enough stock for her shop. By bulk buying multiple items of rice, powdered milk, beans and African sardines she has started her own warehouse, almost guaranteeing that her African food store will not face drought in the event of further Covid-19 waves. 

“The warehouse is becoming full. Every time we buy stock for my shop I always get extra for the warehouse, as I want to be prepared in case of a second lockdown.” Brigitte tells me. “Last time was very shocking and scary for my business – this time I will be ready.”


As a second-generation African, born and raised in the UK, I have come to appreciate the food stores that keep me tied to my heritage. While I was at university in Southampton, I learnt that the foods like fufu and pondu, which I used to hate growing up, are not just a staple part of a diet, but of my identity and culture. With no African food store in close proximity I would have to visit Asian food stores and supermarkets to find alternative ingredients, swapping fresh pinto beans for the canned version to make madesu, a traditional Congolese dish using beans, onions and tomatoes. Other times I would visit home and return with plenty of containers of homemade pondu because I needed a taste of home when university became draining. Without African food stores on my high street I was unable to make these cultural dishes and had to go to great lengths whenever I wanted to switch it up.  

Whether they’re in a big city like London, or a smaller city like Portsmouth, these shops are important features of the high street, not just for the African community but also for anyone that seeks to use them. At the height of lockdown, when supermarket shelves were empty of staples, many African food stores even had items such as flour and pasta in stock. While many hope that major supermarkets will stock more African ingredients frequently in the name of diversity, my wish is that people continue to support independent African food store owners, who work tirelessly to provide for their communities. I have been stocking up at Brigitte’s store: my freezer is full of pondu and chikwanga, and cupboards are packed with packs of fresh pinto beans, coarse semolina and three 10kg bags of Laila basmati rice. So, next time you see an African food store I recommend you be curious, go in and explore. You don’t even need to know how to cook. Just get Indomie instant noodles, some spices and grab a bag of the plantain chips – if you’re going to stock up on anything, it may as well be the greatest snack known to mankind. 


NB: Brigitte preferred to contribute to this article anonymously, therefore her name has been changed the name of her store has not been given.


Emmanuella Ngimbi (@emmanuella_N) is a features writer. With a love of all things Beyonce, food and rum in that order, she is often found under a blanket with a snack.

The illustration is by Onyinye Iwu, an illustrator, designer and teacher based in London. Her work can be found on her website https://www.onyinyeiwu.com/. Her work is inspired by the African continent and specifically her Igbo heritage. 

Both contributors to today’s newsletter were paid for their work.
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UCL Food History Seminars Autumn 2020 – online

Food History Seminar

The Food History Seminar provides an inclusive setting in which food historians, academics and experts working in related fields can come together to discuss their research.

Medieval Baker

About the seminar

Launched at the IHR in summer 2017, the Food History Seminar provides an inclusive setting in which food historians, academics and experts working in related fields can come together to discuss their research. We wish to encourage the participation of all researchers in the seminar, including established academics, independent scholars, museum professionals and postgraduates.

We welcome papers covering topics across all historical periods and geographical locations. To better serve the historical community and distribute research on food history as widely as possible, nationally and internationally, we will hold our 2020-2021 meetings on zoom. Presenters will give a 30-minute paper with 20 minutes for discussion afterwards. Joint Sessions will also be held with two presenters, each giving a 20-minute paper followed by discussion. Meetings will run for one hour. Session will be held on Thursdays from 17:30-18:30 UK Time / 12:30-13:30 US EST. Speakers and attendees will be allowed into seminar meetings 20 minutes prior to the start of each session.

These meetings are open to all and free to attend. But a booking via the seminar’s IHR webpage is required to secure a spot and receive an email with the zoom link. Details about our schedule and presenters’ abstracts can be found below.

https://www.history.ac.uk/seminars/food-history?fbclid=IwAR3UV0ivM3BOO3SuHIMx-7maDp7jHgaqWsbGKqrSRk9sd6BDiryG6ErCTs0

The meetings will be recorded and will be available to view soon after each session has finished. Past seminars can be viewed in the “Archives” section of our website. 

For further enquiries please contact: foodhistoryseminar@gmail.com or follow us on Twitter: @IHR_FoodHist.

Follow food history seminar on Twitter

Social Links – IHR

COVID-19 Foodwork, Race, Gender, Class and Food Justice: An Intersectional Feminist Analysis, Elaine Swan

Final version to appear in Gender in Management, Volume 36 issues 7/8, DOI 10.1108/GM-08-2020-0257

COVID-19 Foodwork, Race, Gender, Class and Food Justice: An Intersectional Feminist Analysis, Elaine Swan

Historically, “women have been doing the majority of the work of feeding families and feeding other people,” Brenton said. And that work is now more difficult, and sometimes more dangerous, than ever. (North, 2020).

This quotation from a blog post about women’s work stresses the significance and risk of women’s foodwork in the context of the Coronavirus pandemic (North, 2020). From racist memes about Chinese eating habits, to middle class social media images of sourdough baking, youtube cook-alongs, and zoom dinner parties, through to media coverage of food bank volunteers, food for nurses, and so-called panic food buying and stockpilers, and new reports about the so-called resilience of the global food system, the media underlines how the COVID-19 pandemic is ‘a study in food’ (Gatronomica, 2020). And as Bridget Burns and Emilia Reye insist, the pandemic is an ‘embodied crisis’ and one in which feminised labour across the world holds up the work of health, care, food and education sectors (Burns and Reye, 2020).

In this paper, I introduce the feminist concept of domestic foodwork to the discussions of the COVID-19 pandemic to draw out its racialised, gendered and classed hierarchies and inequalities. As I have written elsewhere, women’s foodwork has been neglected by organisation studies, even with emerging interest in food studies in recent conferences and special issues (Swan, forthcoming). It’s clear that the global pandemic reveals and accentuates existing social and health inequalities related to food access and food production and creates new food related vulnerabilities and moralities now and in the future (Barker and Russell, 2020; Fernando, 2020; Maye, 2020; Valley et al., 2020). The pandemic has deeply disturbed local and global systems of food production, consumption, and distribution, and is destroying the livelihoods of millions who produce, grow, harvest, cook, serve, and distribute foods, from farmworkers to street vendors to restaurateurs in the Global South and North (Gastronomica, 2020).

In their summary of the US context of the pandemic, Will Valley et al. (2020) outline racial and economic injustices related to the food system, from dangers to migrant and undocumented farmworkers; unsafe labour standards in meat packing; high-risk working conditions and low pay of food retail workers; and the increased use of emergency food systems. According to the Food and Agriculture Organization, the COVID-19 pandemic will worsen global food insecurity for an extra 820 million people. Indeed, famines and malnutrition might kill more people in the Global South than the Coronavirus disease in the longer-term (Fernando, 2020).

As lockdown and the pandemic took hold worldwide, commentary on food production and consumption has surged but to date most of it erases women’s food labours. Indeed, the significance of gender, race and class rarely features in UK accounts. As of July 2020, in over 100 blogposts, reports and rapid responses by academics, food organisations and the media, explicit discussions on the gendered, racialised and classed relations of foodwork remain in single figures. Just as an instance, an important and impressive website resource at   http://www.ccri.ac.uk/covid19food/which collates academic and activist resources on food, does not feature any accounts of women or race. The website helpfully highlights problems for the hospitality sector, the surge in online food retailing, food growing, changing eating habits and the escalation in demand for food banks but without any recourse to questions about race, gender or class.

In contrast, intersectional feminists insist on the significance of gender, class and race inequalities and labour during the pandemic broadly, and the specific conditions of quarantine, lockdown, remote working, school closures and social distancing. Women globally are performing the bulk of paid and unpaid socially reproductive labour – critical health, community and social care, taking up more burdens and multiple tasks, including looking after the sick, elderly, and children (McLaren et al., 2020; North, 2020; Thompson, 2020). Indeed, although women, and especially women of colour dominate health and social care, the bulk of health care is unpaid performed by women in the home (Matthewman and Huppatz, 2020: 5). As schools and childcare centres closed in various countries, working mothers have been trying to balance their paid work with intensified, arduous and sometime hazardous, caring responsibilities for children, sick family members, and elderly relatives (North, 2020; Power, 2020). Women are taking on new responsibilities, labours and roles without any alleviation of their existing responsibilities, or extra benefits or concerns for their well-being and established through gendered, raced and classed power relations of governing during the pandemic (McLaren et al., 2020).

Feminists argued that it became visible that women, especially women of colour in paid and domestic carework and key worker roles were keeping the system running (Burns and Reye, 2020; McLaren et al, 2020; Thompson, 2020). They underlined that this labour reflected the overrepresentation of women, including women of colour and migrant women, in jobs with a “high exposure” risk for COVID-19 (Thompson, 2020).  The Women’s Budget group who have led feminist commentary on certain aspects of the pandemic in the UK provide a useful summary of key statistics:

Care work …has historically been seen as an extension of ‘women’s work.’ It has been undervalued, underpaid and increasingly takes the form of precarious working arrangements like zero-hours contracts as a result of cuts since 2010 and before. 24% of care workers are on zero-hours contracts and home carers are not paid for their journeys between houses. Migrant workers are also over-represented in care work with 1 in 5 carers being born outside the UK, 1 in 7 from outside the EU (https://wbg.org.uk/blog/it-is-women-especially-low-paid-bame-migrant-women-putting-their-lives-on-the-line-to-deliver-vital-care/

Such new media visibility on unpaid and paid care, ‘the COVID-19 crisis is becoming firmly established as above all a crisis of care’ (Chatzidakis et al., 2020, italics in original).

Some feminist commentary reference food labours, although often en passant. To start to address this gap, I introduce aspects of unpaid foodwork during the pandemic in the UK. Due to word count, I can’t discuss other types of foodwork which have been vital: paid foodwork in the home and paid and unpaid foodwork in the public sphere and the community. Although some COVID food scholarship refer to gender and race, not all are feminist or intersectional. As Alice Hovorka (2013) writes, a feminist framework understands gender and food as power laden realms that reproduce difference and inequality between men and women. An intersectional feminist perspective insists on the interrelations between gender, race, class, religion, and sexuality in relation to food, food practices and food systems and how these are structured by relations of power (Parker, 2020; Parker et al., 2019; Forson-Williams & Wilkerson, 2016; Ternikar, 2019).

COVID-19 foodwork

Feminists have coined terms such as ‘domestic labour,’ ‘emotional labour’, ‘wife work’, and ‘kin work’, to expand our understanding of what constitutes women’s work, and of relevance to this article, foodwork and feeding work. What women do within the home and community, even when unpaid, is still ‘work’: a form of productive activity like men’s waged labour (Duffy, 2007). Feminists insist this work is economically, socially and culturally under-valued – even derided – but absolutely indispensable to capitalism and the maintenance of everyday life (Swan, forthcoming; Perrier and Swan, 2019). At the same time. the social organisation of this work is seen to create women’s inequality, subordination, and exploitation (Duffy, 2007; Laslett & Brenner, 1989).

What’s missing in some feminist analysis, as critical race scholars stress, is the significance of racialised divisions and inequalities in domestic work and reproductive labour. The domestic sphere has been, and still is, a site of paid labour for women of colour, immigrant and poor women (Duffy, 2007; Holvino, 2010; Nakano Glenn, 1992). Feminists of colour insist that middle-class white women professional careers and community work have been enabled because of women of colour’s and migrant’s paid domestic labour, and the transference of middle-class women’s daily maintenance and care work to these women (Duffy, 2007; Holvino, 2010).

It’s these insights into the complexities of social reproductive labour that I bring to my introductory discussion of domestic foodwork. The pandemic, and its governing through lockdowns, reinforced and intensified women’s reproductive loads (McLaren et al., 2020). Research shows that the lockdown placed a massive burden on working mothers’ with a majority of women surveyed saying they did more cooking, cleaning, laundry, childcare and home schooling than their male partners (Cox, 2020). As a result, they were forced to ‘de-prioritize paid work more frequently than their male counterparts’ (Cox, 2020). Nazia Hussein and Saba Hussain (2020) point out that for migrant ethnic minority women with ageing parents abroad, there is an additional ‘burden of transnational care’.

Of course, domestic inequalities and burdens vary by class, race and migrant status: those who have better paid jobs have the space, housing and resources to support working and schooling from home. Many women working in food retail, nursing, transport, social and eldercare, and other aspects of the food sector, over-represented by women of colour and migrant workers, could not work from home, and also did extra unpaid labour as volunteers. Many of these women suffer from work poverty and low incomes due to working informally, part-time work and zero contracts and during the pandemic worked in conditions hazardous to their health and lives (McLaren, et al., 2020).

Unpaid domestic foodwork became an additional load for many women during lockdown. North American feminist food justice academics, Pat Allen and Carolyn Sachs stress that relations to food underpin women’s experiences of work, life and inequality. Foodwork is understood as gendered in that women are required to take responsibility for feeding work in the family.  In spite of supposed shifts in equality, and men’s interest in cooking, women continue to do disproportionate amount of food work (Beagan, Chapman, D’Sylva, & Bassett, 2008; Koch, 2019). Women are so responsible for ‘the mental and manual labor of food provision—the most basic labor of care’ such that it ‘chains’ them to food (Allen and Sachs, 2007: 1). And as feminist stress, women have complex, embodied, material, economic and symbolic relationships to food (van Esterik, 1999; Allens and Sachs, 2007)

The term foodwork refers to the ‘physical, cognitive, interactional, and institutional labor in the processes of feeding individuals, families, and groups’ in the food system (Sobal, 2017: 127). The concept of domestic foodwork covers the planning, purchasing, preparation, cleaning up but also the health, emotional, cultural and domestic management of eating, and in households, often with a focus on children and their socialisation into manners, and even gendered behaviours (Meah, 2014; DeVault, 1991). Although sometimes pleasurable, and an important element in cultural reproduction, domestic foodwork is often exploitative, devalued and oppressive (DeVault, 1991; Meah, 2014).

Studies of foodwork are inspired by Marjorie Devault’s (1991) foundational study of mothers’ food labour – sometimes called maternal foodwork- in US heterosexual family households.  One of the most significant findings of her research is the complex, time-intensive, relentless nature of the labour of feeding families, work that is often hidden, and yet embodied, emotional, cognitive and physical (Brenton, 2017; DeVault, 1991). It’s worth giving an example of maternal foodwork to show its multi-facetedness even before the difficulties of the COVID-19 context. Take food shopping for a family: this entails budgeting, meal planning, travelling to and from the shops, comparing prices, substituting ingredient, unpacking and sorting even before cooking begins. Shopping requires and intimate family knowledge of families’ food preferences, allergies, intolerances, special diets, health and dietary needs and desires, for a range of people from babies, toddlers, teenagers, older people, and people who are sick (McCabe & de Waal Malefyt, 2015). Shopping for food became highly problematic during lockdown for people on low incomes, with disabilities, shielding, or with very little time because of zero contract work. The middle classes found it much easier because of their various safety nets of income, savings, digital access and domestic space, and who could comfortably pay for home deliveries for food ordered online.

What’s clear is that women’s unpaid domestic foodwork has intensified in the COVID context with women feeling the brunt of extra and new responsibilities, including increased demands on cooking and feeding family members. Anna North (2020) argues that ‘while it’s too early for data on how families are feeding themselves during notes the lockdown and the pandemic is changing how families shop and eat, with school closures and sickness in the family increasing women’s cooking load and bringing additional complications.  The demands of foodwork during the pandemic fell especially hard on low-income women, especially lone parents and racially minoritised women and asylum seekers.  Foodwork practices and meanings are unevenly distributed by race, and class and the pandemic magnifies difficulties with food that many people were struggling with pre-COVID including affordability and access to food. The feminisation and racialisation of austerity cemented the pernicious negative impacts of COVID-19 on low income women. Scholars have detailed the failings of Britain’s welfare state pre-pandemic to prevent hunger and ensure good nutrition amongst economically vulnerable people which intensified under lockdown and since (Barker and Russell, 2019; Lambie-Mumford, 2019; Woods, interviewed Howell, 2020).

Repeated reports stress that racial inequalities of COVID-19 are extensive. Leading UK Black food activist Dee Woods argues that in cities, pre-COVID poverty, disability, food insecurity, health inequality, and poor housing disproportionately affected women of colour, all of which were exacerbated during lockdown and the ensuing pandemic (Wood interviewed Howell, 2020).Due to financial uncertainty, school closures and job losses, food insecurity, food bank use exploded and research suggests almost a fifth of UK homes with children went hungry and food insecurity quadrupled to 16% of the population during lockdown (Loopstra, 2020).  The Food Standards Agency (2020) suggested that one in 10 people in the UK were forced to use food banks during lockdown.  Food insecurity was caused largely by a short-term shortage of basic foods in the shops, an inability to access shops because of self–isolation, sudden school closures, furloughing, inadequate benefits and financial insecurity (Loopstra 2020; O’Connell and Brannen, 2020).

The upshot is that many women of colour, migrant women and white working-class women suffered from food poverty and food hunger during the pandemic in the UK. In addition, the economy’s dependence on precarious employment in sectors which shut down during lockdown created a new group of precariat experiencing food insecurity, including women working as key workers on zero hours contracts, disproportionately affecting women of colour (Barker and Russell, 2020). Not only are these women poorly paid but they lack financial safety nets and are more likely to be made redundant as a result of the pandemic. In a blogpost on food poverty, Rebecca O’Connell and Julie Brannen (2020) deconstruct the slogan of solidarity – “We’re all in this together” –to highlight that millions of households with children experienced coronavirus lockdowns dogged by food insecurity. Critically they stress that the longer-term health and opportunities for these children are dire.

Pre-COVID, austerity politics created food and foodwork inequalities with impoverished mothers on low wages and benefits finding it hard to feed their families. Many foodwork practices are focused on health, and under these conditions, women compromise their own nutritional and eating needs (Koch, 2019; O’Connell et al., 2019). Women experiencing poverty have to do extra labours to provision for their families, and/or children. They develop complex, detailed and extensive knowledges about budgets, brands, family preferences, special offers on food, minimising waste, shopping around and reducing transport costs (Beagan et al, 2018; Martin, 2018; O’Connell et al., 2019). In these ways, women’s knowledges often prevent hunger (Esterik, 1997). In their study in the UK, pre-COVID, O’Connell et al. (2019) outline how mothers go to food banks, shop around in different supermarkets and locations to find better value food, an expensive and time-consuming approach. They cannot afford to bulk buy and live hand to mouth, cooking from basic ingredients and bulking out meals with cheap carbohydrate foods. They seek to protect their children by cutting back on their own food intake. As O’Connell explains in a recent webinar, getting hold of food, thinking about what to feed everyone, shopping around, buying what children will eat is all very difficult especially when you are short of money and time. Brenda Parker writes how austerity amplifies and intensifies the exhaustion what she calls the ‘energy sucking’ work of travelling to food banks, churches and endless waiting at agencies and clinics (Parker, 2017 cited in Kern, 2020: 50). Again this kind of energy sucking labour will have amplified under lockdowns, social distancing and the pandemic.

But there are other dimensions to domestic foodwork. It is being transformed by intensified mothering ideologies around ‘eating right’: feeding children healthy, and now also eco-friendly food – what Barbara Parker (2020) calls eco-nutrionism – making women responsible for the planet’s health.  These foodwork practices of doing good and eating right create new types of labour and inequalities, reinforcing heteronormative, gender, race and class hierarchies, all of which have deepened during the pandemic (Brenton 2017; Parker, 2020; Perrier and Swan, 2019).  Mothers are expected to keep their children and the eco-systems healthy and safe, and to produce healthy citizens, incited to buy healthy, organic and local foods, even though what these mean, and the ethics of how they are produced is not so straightforward (Koch, 2019; Martin, 2018).

The stress, stigmatisation and burden of hegemonic food healthism and eco-nutritionism on women of colour and women on low budgets cannot be underestimated (Beagan et al; Koch, 2019; Jones, 2018; Parker, 2020). Foodworkers – processors, retailers, chefs, waitresses- themselves, often women of colour, pre-COVID often couldn’t afford to buy fresh locally sourced food, a position made worse by the pandemic (Koch, 2019). Austerity had already forced many people, especially lone mothers, refugees and asylum seekers and other minoritised groups into seeking food aid, often from food banks, with the shame they bring, together with poor nutritional, environmentally sustainable and cultural food options. And as Madeleine Power and colleagues (2020) have underlined, social distancing practices and anxieties in food banks, may augment feelings of stigmatisation.

What you cook and eat dominates ideal of good mothering and wider cultural capital. DeVault’s original scholarship showed that domestic foodwork was performative, enabling hegemonic ideals of femininity and good mothering to be enacted. Making food choices, and eating or resisting certain foods reproduce gendered, racialised and classed identities and subjectivities and classed hierarchies around ‘ethical eating’ (Cairns & Johnston, 2015; Parker, 2020; Parker et. al., 2019; Forson Williams & Wilkerson, 2014; Harper, 2010). Discourses about healthism and eco-nutritionism reproduce ‘harmful, racialised ideas about who can know how to eat the right foods, who is healthy, controlled and civilised’, all of which intensified during the pandemic, consolidating the figure of the ‘unhealthy Other’, and hierarchies of racialised and classed privilege. (Parker, 2020: 46; Flowers and Swan, 2020). Not having certain foods not only has brutal effects on women and children’s health and well-being but also affects their social and cultural inclusion (O’Connell et al., 2020). Food insecurity then is about disempowerment as well as the lack of food on the table (Mengesha, 2016: 26; Van Esterik, 1997).

Food is multifaceted and not just about health and nutrition but also cultural and emotional well-being and women’s identity and sense of self (Stelfox and Newbold, 2019; Van Esterik, 1997; Ternikar, 2019). Hence foodwork is central to cultural reproduction, and an expression of feminine solidarity, resistance and identity, a means through which women find meaning and power. In a groundbreaking study, Meredith Abarca (2006) explains how Mexican women use the kitchen and food to celebrate their skill, identity and resourcefulness and build relations and survival politics with other women. Cooking food ‘creates a locus for work, creativity and pleasure that transcend realms of human reproduction as shaped by the market, patriarchy and alienating labour’ (Lewis 2016: 6).  Foodwork can enable highly valued cultural practices such as the preservation of traditions and collective ethnic identities, which furnish women with ‘culinary capital’, and spaces for racially minoritised women to build collective anti-racism (D’Sylva & Beagan, 2011; Nettles-Barcelón, Clark, Thorsson, Ternikar, 2019; Walker, & Williams-Forson,  2015).). But under COVID and austerity conditions, these skills and pleasures are replaced by feeling hungry, trying to make do, and feelings of shame and guilt, and deprived of the power and resources to influence key aspects of their families’ lives (Van Esterik, 1997)

Conclusion

My aim in this article is to outline the emerging its gendered, racialised and classed relations, hierarchies and politics of unpaid domestic foodwork during COVID-19 through an anti-racist feminist lens. It’s clear that many women in the UK have been forced to shoulder extra unpaid care labour, their burdens in unpaid domestic labour, community work and paid front line work escalating. Like women around the world, these labours have been imposed without consideration or the alleviation of their other responsibilities (McLaren et al, 2020).

My focus has been on unpaid domestic foodwork, a topic I argued has been under-researched by food academics and commentators. Feminists repeat the historic call for a revaluing and recognition of such work as labour and argue that women’s preparedness to pitch in shouldn’t be taken for granted (Elliot cited North, 2020). As I sketched out, foodwork underpins ideals about good mothering, eating right, notions of healthism and practices of cultural reproduction which become impossible for working class white and racially minoritised women in the context of food poverty, work poverty, lockdown and under continuing pandemic consequences. These are also the women doing the paid foodwork on farms, supermarkets, and in hospitals and care homes, and community foodwork in food banks and community kitchens.

As I write the pandemic is still with us. Everyone expects future waves. The negative racialised, classed and gendered effects will be felt for a very long time, including rises in gendered and racialised unemployment, poverty and precarity. Feminists caution that women’s care responsibilities, and new obligations under COVID, will worsen and their impact ‘endure well beyond the pandemic’ (McLaren et al., 2020). As we grapple with the best strategies to develop policies and practices, what’s important is that we recognise the significance of women’s paid and unpaid work, and feminist and activist commentary about this work and its inequalities.  Gender, race and class have not been taken account of sufficiently in interpersonal, societal and policy responses to the COVID-19 pandemic (McLaren et al., 2020). Moreover, feminist analyses have received relatively little attention from those formulating responses to the pandemic (Social Politics, 2020). A call for papers for the feminist journal Social Politics (2020) insists, ‘this is striking as measures to confront the crisis have relied heavily on an expanded role of care, of unpaid work and of families – all prominent areas in feminist thinking and activism’. Furthermore, women need to be involved in further crisis assessments, resource allocations, recovery responses and planning and their care labour acknowledged in policy and academic research (McLaren et al., 2020; Mlambo-Ngsuka and Ramos, 2020).  As Helen McLaren and colleagues stress (2020), women have immediate practical and strategic needs, and the rise in mutual aid reveals a lack in government services which women should not have to fill.

Turning to food more specifically, food activists and academics call for the government to address food poverty properly and support a socially just and sustainable food system that moves beyond food charity.  As Margo Barker and Jean Russell write, ‘The COVID-19 crisis has brought the shortcomings of UK food welfare policy, the central role of the voluntary sector, and the major dependence of the UK on philanthropy into sharp relief. Much of the government response was piecemeal and driven by pressure groups and charities. It sought populist plasters rather than address the deep causes of food insecurity through proper planning’ (2020: 868) Food charity and emergency aid is a ‘safety valve’ that not transformative of the inequalities, stigma, shame and unsustainability of the food system (Poppendieck, 1998). Women and children are likely to bear the brunt of the effects of food insecurity, as well as COVID-19-associated health system disruptions, with long-term social, cultural, and economic consequences for individuals and society (Power et al, 2020).

In this short article, I haven’t been able to address the inequalities and dangers experienced by food workers in paid domestic and public foodwork during the pandemic. Coronavirus poses an occupational health risk to food system workers including farmers/producers, grocery store workers, emergency food system staff and volunteers, all of whom have provided essential services that support food consumption and safeguard food access (Parks et al., 2020). Nor have I been able to discuss the link between the pandemic and industrialized agriculture, livestock production, deforestation, and capital’s relentless exploitation of nature, and feminist and critical race studies of these (Fernando, 2020).

What’s required next is an intersectional feminist analysis of actually existing foodwork practices during the pandemic. This needs to move away from noticing gender, to outlining an analysis of food and systemic systems and relations of power, gender, race and class (Hovorka, 2013; Parker, 2020). Future research can explore how women of colour, front line workers, paid foodworkers have been affected by foodwork responsibilities and obligations and the coping and innovation practices they have developed. Feminist studies must also examine how to support front-line food system workers to keep them safe and well (Parks et al., 2020).

Moreover, it’s not clear yet exactly how race, class and gender underpinned the need for, and the provision of community foodwork through emergency food aid, and food support. To combat the challenges of COVID-19, Oona Morrow and Barbara Parker (2020) argue we need to amplify anti-racist feminists’ experiments in food initiatives. They give examples such as cooperative and co-housing; worker cooperatives; community kitchens, fridges, and daycares; to imagining, and designing cities that facilitate care, commoning, and collectivity. In their call for a food justice approach to racial disparities during COVID-19 in a US context, Alison Hope Alkon, Sarah Bowen, Yuki Kato, and Kara Alexis Young (2020) stress that racial capitalism affects the production, distribution, and consumption of food, and structural racism and workplace the exploitation of people of colour and other minoritized groups, all of which impacts their food insecurity and vulnerability during the pandemic. They insist that food justice addressing the cultural whiteness of health promotion itself. North American food activist, LaDonna Redmond argued for ‘Food Justice 2.0,’ an approach in which people of colour and other minoritised groups who have faced food inequalities lead the food movement (Parks et al., 2020). Speaking of the UK, Dee Woods argues that the pandemic reveals just how ‘threadbare’ the UK’s food system is (Howell, 2020).

Rather than food reform then, we need to develop food justice which attends to gendered, classed and racialised power dynamics, identities and hierarchies embedded within the food system, food policies and food practices but also food activism, and significantly for those of us in academia, studies and research on food.  As Alice Julier puts it, we need to see the construction of race and gender as a ‘defining feature of the production and consumption of food’ (2019: 20). Hopefully we can start to address COVID-19 food justice intersectionally before any future waves, and stop the emotional, embodied, economic, social and cultural harm that the pandemic wreaks indirectly and directly on women through burdens of unpaid carework, including the labours of domestic, frontline and community foodwork (Fortier, 2020).

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